Home is Wherever My Crazies Are: Salamanca, Spain

After a restful night of sleep in Vitoria we left for Salamanca, Spain. We had decided on this location as a decent half-way point for our trip south to Gibraltar. It did not disappoint!
We stayed at the gorgeous NH Puerta de lat Catedral, which was on the southern tip of Old Salamanca, a walled city. Across the courtyard from our hotel was the backside of the Old Cathedral, which was built in the 12th c. We wandered around to what we thought was the front of the Old Cathedral, but it was in fact the entrance to the 'New' Cathedral, which meant it was built starting in early 16th c. (how I love new construction ;) and took nearly 200 years to build. You can tell ;). The ornamentation and workmanship was breathtaking. The soaring domes were all multi-colored and brilliantly painted (was it a re-do? Not sure) and then grounded by hundreds of stone columns that buttressed up to meet at the top. There was also much heavily detailed delicate wood carving and decoration, and along one side of the cathedral soared the impressive organ. The children were awe-struck. It was only matched by the exterior of the cathedral, with its ornate carvings of saints and dignitaries, all done in soothing terracotta tones which seemed to gain depth as the sun would pass over them.

There were the requisite beggars at each of the cathedral entrances, begging for alms. They were all elderly women and sang the most mournful songs.

After the cathedral Beloved took the children aside and gave them their 'allowances' for the month. (50 euros/ea). Son promptly found the nearest gift shop and bought one of two knives. The first one he bought was quite heavy and impressive, with deep carvings and a nice 'hand'. Upon further inspection though I determined that the knife had in fact naked women on the handle, with hair strategically-placed and yet no obvious female genitalia on view. ;) He was truly, TRULY embarassed to discover it, and it wasn't until we were four hours away in the car the next day that he started to insist that he needed to get rid of it. I think i was able to assauge his concerns by reminding him that it was just like a piece of artwork, and guess what, his dad and I at first thought it was a mermaid. "Just like at Starbucks", I said. I think that helped ;). The girls purchased sweatshirts and I found a few items of my own to take back. I did cave and buy a 'Universidad of Salamanca' t-shirt because they were in abundance there and very cheap (5 e). Plus it also reminded me of the Oxford sweatshirt my mom had bought for Beloved in 1989. ;) Salamanca has a University, and its one of the oldest in Europe, opening its door in 1230.
After the tourist traps and a good dinner at Pains restaurant (a sort of Spanish Subway), the kids retired to their hotel room and we decided to venture out to the Plaza Mayor for a cold beverage. The Plaza Mayor was built in the 17trh century and instead of incessant saints and religious figures (Spain is kind of Catholic, fyi ;) the plaza was decorated with cameos of old authors like Cervantes. All with the same exquisite carving and handiwork. We sat among the throngs of people who were enjoying dinner or having a beverage along the perimeter of the square at small square and round tables... I particularly loved watching the old couples entertaining their assumed grandchildren. It was very sweet.
I continue to fall in love with Spain. I haven't felt at all peculiar or uncomfortable, and they seem to appreciate my stumbling attempts at Spanish. ;) At one point in interacting with a shop-clerk I said "Lo ciento, No comprende" and she smiled and said "Claro" ("I know"). Unlike the French, Spain seems to appreciate the effort in you trying to communicate, and will patiently wait you out as you butcher their language. One thing I have not enjoyed is the wolf-whistles, which the men aren't brave enough to do to your face, but after you walk by or when you enter into your car. Having my daughters around I know they attention is being given to them, not the old gray mare, but at least it's not gotten to a threatening level whatsoever. I have to wonder if the men are just full of bravado, and no follow-through ;).

After a fitful night sleep for Beloved and I, we made our way down to the basement for breakfast. The buffet was top-notch. Every type of fruit, bread, meat (I am quite fond of Parma ham and Brie, thank you very much!) and cups of really good espresso and fresh-squeezed juice. We knew we had a crazy day of driving to Gibraltar to do and wanted a full meal under our belts for the journey.